Why I No Longer Offer Keratin Treatments in My Salon

I remember when keratin straighteners first appeared in the Hairdressing world. It appeared like a gift from the Hair Gods and was a dream come true in a time when Jennifer Aniston’s poker straight hair was every frizzy haired girl’s dream. You mean I don’t have to spend 45 min blow drying and ironing my hair? Bring it on. As a Hairdresser, I would have been crazy to ignore this miracle hair service. Clients started asking, and I signed up to learn. I was sold the ‘formaldehyde free’ version after law suits had started in the US against the companies that produced the original formaldehyde version. The first release of keratin straighteners to the mass market made the hair extremely straight. So straight that the hair wouldn’t even kink or curl with hot tongs. What a miracle clients screamed. But the problem was with the formaldehyde, which created a smoke when heated with the hair irons during the service. This smoke was carcinogenic and was inhaled by thousands of hairdressers and clients during the service. The law suits were for lung cancer cases that were appearing on mass just 6 months after the release of the keratin straightening systems. The formaldehyde keratin treatments were quickly pulled from the market and reformulated to the formaldehyde free version that is popular today. They dropped the straightening after the new system didn’t straighten the hair as well but it did reduce frizz so blow drying became a breeze. This new formula was sold to us as ‘plant based’ and ‘safe to use’, containing ‘all natural ingredients’. Hoorah we said and trusted our product companies.

That was 20 years ago and like many hairdressers, I have performed multiple keratin treatments on clients believing that my health and the health of my clients, was not at risk. Yeah we opened doors because of the smell and the ironing process still produced a misty fog that would blanket the salon. But I still naively believed they were safe and effective because… my product company told me they were!!! I still believed all products were tested before they were released to the mass market. I believed and I didn’t do research.

Enter 2021, and a salon relocation landed me in a position I had not encountered before. A smoke alarm system that alerted the Fire Brigade. Happily performing a keratin treatment one busy day, I suddenly hear the piercing sound of the smoke alarm going off. Amidst the noise we kept on working. Must be a false alarm as we couldn’t smell smoke. The Fire Trucks arrived and the firemen went straight to the control panel. Suddenly they were in my salon informing me that the alarm going off is within my salon space, right above where I am performing my keratin treatment. I show them what I was doing and they agree that it shouldn’t be enough smoke to set off the alarms. Plus we had the doors and windows open because, you know, the smell. They reset the alarm and continue back to the station. All good I thought. False alarm. This scenario would be repeated another 2 times in the next 6 months. Each time while performing a keratin treatment service and each time the fire brigade comment on the misty fog in the air. It shouldn’t have be enough to set off a fire alarm but that’s what it seems to be doing. On their advice, I replaced the smoke alarms with heat detectors. And my keratin treatment journey continued. I was aware of the foggy mist and the smell, but still believed the treatment was safe for both myself, my staff and my clients.

Different company reps would visit to promote their keratin treatments and companies would update and reformulate their products all claiming they were safer and more natural than the competitor or previous version. What a red flag moment and we missed it. We believed them and thought they had our health as a top priority. If these treatments were ‘safe and natural’ why did they need to keep making them safer? I put aside the smoke we inhaled, I ignored the smell that would stay in my nose and come out of my pores for 3 days after and I disregarded the annoying little rasp in my thought that I just couldn’t cough out. It’s natural I’d tell myself. No way this could be doing me harm.

In the last 6 months my investigative nature has directed me down the toxic free path. When you clean up the toxins in your life, it becomes easier to identify when you encounter them. So the annoying rasp and the smell coming from my pores stopped me in my tracks. This can’t be right. So I stopped doing the treatments, just like that. I took keratin treatments off my menu. I threw away my remaining product and trusted my gut.

Then the email arrived from a man named Roberto from a group called Drug Watch https://www.drugwatch.com/ with some interesting reading. The article was about chemical straighteners and their link to hormone related cancers. Read the article here drugwatch.com/chemical-hair-straighteners/

Chemical straighteners were around before keratin treatments and are still very popular in the US especially amongst black women due to the ability to make the hair poker straight. Not so popular in Australia, but still used here legally as they are deemed ‘safe and effective’. So this made me curious to do more research.

According to the Drug Watch article, even products promoting themselves as ‘formaldehyde free’ often contain chemicals which are ‘formaldehyde releasers’. “Chemical ingredients such as methanal, methanediol, formalin and methylene glycol all release formaldehyde fumes when they are mixed with water during the hair straightening treatment. Additionally, many chemicals that are listed as formaldehyde-free release other closely related compounds that carry similar risks.” (Permanent Hair Straightening: Risks, Side Effects & Methods, n.d.) Formaldehyde free products may also contain chemicals that release formaldehyde when heated with the irons or blow dryer. That smoke not only effects the client receiving the hair treatment but even more so the Hairstylist performing the service. Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen and can lead to breathing and lung issues.

According to a Case Report from (Abu-Amer et al., 2022) “Formaldehyde-free hair straighteners do not technically contain formaldehyde; however, they contain other chemicals such as glyoxyloyl carbocysteine which releases formaldehyde upon contact with heat. Moreover, its by-product glyoxylate may convert to oxalate; both compounds have potential nephrotoxic effect.” The result from heating the chemicals in formaldehyde free straighteners can be toxic to the kidneys. In the same case report they found high levels of formaldehyde in the air taken from the salon. Yes people, that misty smoke is a formaldehyde cloud. It was also found on the Hairdresser’s skin.

Also on my investigations, I found a Safework NSW fact sheet titled ‘Potential Exposure To Formaldehyde Whilst Using Keratin Treatment – Hairdressers and Beauty Salon Operator and Worker Be Aware’ (Nsw, n.d.) which states ‘Formaldehyde or substances that can release Formaldehyde may also be listed on the Safety Data Sheet (SDS) or product labels as ‘Formalin, methylene glycol, methylene oxide, paraform, formic aldehyde, methanal, oxomethane, oxymethylene and morbicid acid.’ Please be aware of these chemicals when purchasing keratin products to use on clients.

Salon owners and their workers are unaware of what is contained in these keratin treatments due to false labelling and omitted ingredients. A survey conducted by The Environmental Working Group (Executive Summary Hair Straighteners, n.d.) found 15 out of 16 companies surveyed claimed their products contained little to no formaldehyde but instead contained substantial amounts. The study also found levels of formaldehyde high enough in the salons tested, to require extensive precautions. At the levels of formaldehyde being released, the salons should require ventilation, air monitoring and face shields to name a few. Governments worldwide are failing to take action on companies that cover up the levels of formaldehyde that Hairdressers and their clients are being exposed to.

So back to my original statement and the purpose of this blog. The above shows why I no longer offer the keratin treatment service in my salon. For years the hair and beauty industry have been using Hairdressers and their clients as guinea pigs. Far too many recalls, lawsuits and product lies, putting our health at risk. Other industries have tough regulations but the hair and beauty industry seems to have been ignored. If the Government and our industry leaders are not willing to take a stand, then it is up to us as Hairdressers, for our own, our staff and our clients protection. Do your research. Ask for the ingredients list before purchasing any keratin products. Stop believing your reps and the product companies who are putting their profits before our health. And just like I did, if you feel like any products are affecting your health, then stop using them. Heartaches, dizziness, trouble breathing, even a product that smells so strong that it affects you. These are all signs of product toxicity. Yes we deal with chemicals daily but we need to be aware of the ones that are causing us harm. Our bodies will tell us. We need to boycott companies that pump us full of toxic chemicals and embrace those that don’t. And please, stop falling for the advertising and lies. All you need is the ingredients and a little help from Google. Information is power.

References

1. Permanent Hair Straightening: Risks, Side Effects & Methods. (n.d.). Drugwatch.com. https://www.drugwatch.com/chemical-hair-straighteners/permanent-straighteners/

2. Abu-Amer, N., Silberstein, N., Kunin, M., Mini, S., & Beckerman, P. (2022). Acute Kidney Injury following Exposure to Formaldehyde-Free Hair-Straightening Products. Case Reports in Nephrology and Dialysis, 112–116. https://doi.org/10.1159/000525567

3. Nsw, S. (n.d.). SAFETY ALERT POTENTIAL EXPOSURE TO FORMALDEHYDE WHILST USING KERATIN TREATMENTS - HAIRDRESSERS AND BEAUTY SALON OPERATORS AND WORKERS BE AWARE BACKGROUND. https://www.safework.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0010/132220/SW08780-Potential-exposure-to-formaldehyde-whilst-using-keratin-treatments.pdf

4. Executive Summary «Hair Straighteners. (n.d.). Www.ewg.org. Retrieved July 16, 2024, from https://www.ewg.org/hair-straighteners/our-report/executive-summary/ ‌

"Scalp Bleach vs. Highlights: Understanding the Difference and Choosing the Right Blonde Technique for You."

If you're considering going blonde but find the terminology confusing, don't worry, you're not alone. Terms like foils, highlights, and scalp bleach can be overwhelming, especially if you're not familiar with them. In this blog, we'll demystify these hairdressing techniques and help you understand the difference between scalp bleach and highlights. So, whether you're looking for a vibrant, fashion-forward look or a low-maintenance, natural blonde, we've got you covered.

Scalp Bleach: Going All-In for the Ultimate Blonde

Scalp bleach, also known as lightener or bleach, is a powder typically mixed with peroxide to lift the pigment from the hair. While some hairdressers prefer the term "lightener" to make it sound less intimidating, at Birdie, we call it what it is: bleach. Bleach is the only way to achieve significant lightening, surpassing four shades of your natural hair color.

Scalp Bleach

The bleach powder, usually blue or white, combined with peroxide, can lighten hair by 8-9 shades, depending on the brand and strength of peroxide used. For instance, if you have medium brown hair (level 4), bleach can lift it to a pale yellow tone at level 12-13. This lightness provides the perfect base for toning and creating a platinum blonde look.

Scalp bleach involves applying the bleach mixture to all of the client's hair, resulting in a block color effect. This technique produces a distinct regrowth line as the hair grows out, which some people embrace as a rockstar look. The results of a scalp bleach are vibrant, fashion-forward colors, making it the ideal choice for achieving very light blonde shades, such as platinum.

Highlights: Blending for a Natural Blonde Look

In contrast to scalp bleach, highlights offer a softer, more blended look. With this technique, selected strands of hair are either spliced or weaved, leaving some natural hair out of each foil. By strategically placing the highlights, a hairdresser can create a more natural, sun-kissed effect.

Highlights

Highlights take longer to achieve a very blonde result compared to scalp bleach. The blending of darker and lighter strands creates an overall more subdued color, giving a more natural appearance. Half head highlights are a popular choice for those dipping their toes into the world of blonde. Another option is stretch lights, where each piece of hair is individually foiled, resulting in a block blonde effect with softened regrowth.

Maintaining and Enhancing Your Blonde Look

Regardless of whether you choose scalp bleach or highlights, there are ways to soften the regrowth line and enhance your blonde color. One method is a root stretch toner, which can blend the roots and make the regrowth less noticeable. This technique is worth exploring and will be covered in a future blog post.

Conclusion

If you're contemplating going blonde, it's essential to understand the difference between scalp bleach and highlights. Scalp bleach offers a bold, vibrant result with a clear regrowth line, making it ideal for those seeking a fashion-forward, very light blonde look. On the other hand, highlights provide a softer, more blended effect, offering a low-maintenance, natural blonde appearance.

When discussing your desired outcome with your hairdresser, make sure to communicate your preferences and lifestyle. Whether you opt for scalp bleach or highlights, both techniques have their merits and can help you achieve the blonde look you've always wanted. Embrace your inner blonde, and enjoy the transformative power of hair color!

Why the Australian Hairdressing Industry needs change NOW to survive.

An open letter to Australian Salon Owners

Just imagine being asked for fashion advice, women hanging off your every word. Newspapers featuring you on the front page and attending fashion shows as a guest. The public see you as an expert in your field and wouldn’t trust anyone else, let alone themselves with their hair. You are treated like a Rockstar. This was Hairdressing in the 60s. Fast forward 60 years and the public view of Hairdressers is on the decline. We are judged as High School dropouts who just mix colour and put it on hair, and not very intelligent. Where did our art go and why do we train hard and work hard for such little reward?

I am ready to take the criticism so I’m just going to say it. WE DID IT TO OURSELVES! As an industry, we are to blame. No one is coming to save us. It’s up to us to save ourselves and that requires a massive change in not only our training and structure but also our attitudes. Through pain, comes change and you will all agree our industry is feeling the pain of lack of respect form those in power.

According to the The Australian Government Department of Jobs and Small Business, there has been a shortage of hairdressers for over 20 years. We have an oversupply of certificates but not enough skilled Hairdressers.

A quick read of the article dated December 2109, 2 out of 3 hairdressing jobs are unfilled. https:// www.abc.net.au/news/2019-12-17/hairdresser-shortage-and-what-should-be-done-about-it/ 11796838

So where are all the Hairdressers? Are we becoming the new Blacksmiths?

In 2019, Hair Services was the most common paid service for women out of all personal care services. So our clients want us, yet no one is listening. We are a future proof industry. We cannot be replaced by a machine. We touch people, we council, we beautify, we save people precious time. So why are we given so little respect and understanding of how important our industry is.

First, some interesting stats The Australian Bureau of Statistics found in research conducted in 1993 that - Only 36% of Qualified Hairdressers worked in the Hairdressing Trade - 27% of hairdressers were not in the workforce (they are guessing this is due to a high percentage of women staying home)

The Australian Industry Skills Committee found that in - 2011, 46,400 people were employed in hairdressing - 2019, 77,800 people were employed in hairdressing We have trained people, but why are they so hard to employ. Where did they go?

The AISC has found there was a decline in enrolments for Hairdressing related training over the last 4 years, a more than 50% decline in apprentice and trainee sign ups since 2010. What used to be a revered industry is now struggling to get young people to even enrol.

- In 2018, 19,500 people enrolled in a Hairdressing Related Qualification only 5,200 completed this qualification

- In 2018, 3,730 commenced an Apprentice and Training Qualification and only 1,852 completed it.

And out of those that do enrol, about half complete. Is our training that boring? Why aren’t people excited by our fun industry? Is money the deciding factor?

When it comes to the Certificate II and III in Hairdressing - 43% of enrolments in the training was from a Private Training Provider, and only 52% from a Tafe.

Add to that, the Vocational Education and Training system is not meeting employer expectations due to inadequate training and the shortening and condensing of the course.

According to The National College of Vocational Education, in 2018 most students undertaking VET condensed training in hairdressing were under 20 years of age and of a non english speaking background. Has our course become just something to do when you can’t decide or for those wanting to get residency. Things went downhill when we were put on the Skills Shortage List as a profession to undertake if you want a residency in Australia. That coupled with the condensing of our course to ‘fast track’ for those that could afford it, making Apprenticeships seem slow and long. Just another example of the Government not understanding our industry. Yet we stood back and let this happen.

Our top industry employers are lower priced chain stores making that an easy option for the under qualified to find work. Leaving the higher priced salons with minimal job applicants.

A haircut is a haircut right???

Even barbering industry has reported a shortage of qualified barbers and cutting skills are reported to be at a low level across the industry. Without the proper training, staff won’t build a client base and won’t stay in the industry very long. We then lose them to a Call Centre for more money and less pressure.

In our industry, we do not sell a product, the Hairdresser is the product, and if that Hairdresser does not receive the proper training, then the responsibility lies with the Salon Owners to train the Hairdressers to the standard clients expect, whilst paying them a fully qualified wage. Don’t get me wrong, I’m all for training new staff but when the basic skills are not present and you have to pay full wage and fully train a staff member, this does not become a viable financial option.

Those who want to learn, will learn. Those who don’t, you need to weed out quick but that takes time, effort and feels like the beginning again with each new staff member. If you don’t love this job in the first month, then I’m saying you never will. We don’t need more Hairdressers, we need more skilled and passionate Hairdressers with proper training and real skills.

The ‘hangers on’ have become more prevalent since the Government mandated that Employers have to pay for their Apprentice Tafe training. They decide to ‘give it a go’ with no real loss on the Apprentice’s behalf and can leave when it all goes too boring and hard, with the Salon Owner left with the burden of training fees for someone who doesn’t end up finishing their Apprenticeship. All win and no loss for those just dipping their toes. I disagree that we need to pay Apprentice Training fees. Training a staff member and sharing the skills and tips we have built up over our career is not a privilege on us, it’s a privilege for those training under us. I believe, if a student really wants to learn the trade of Hairdressing, they will be willing to pay for their own education and fell blessed to be working under a mentor. The Government can bring in a HECS style debt for those who need help financially. With the Government rebates and help, the course is still on the lower end when it comes to High Education fees.

So what else?

We have parents discouraging their children not to pursue a career in Hairdressing due to low wages and High Schools not encouraging students to enrol in Hairdressing due to the need to publish higher University enrolments. With such negative energy towards Hairdressing is no wonder the young feel like it’s not a worthy career to pursue.

The industry has lack of appropriate regulation and inconsistent standards and training across the states. In New South Wales, South Australia and Tasmania only, salons need to be operated by a registered hairdresser. In Victoria, anyone can operate a salon unless they want to hire an apprentice, then they need to be qualified, and in Northern Territory, Queensland and ACT there are no operating qualifications apart from the fact that all apprentices must be supervised. What do these regulations say about our industry? With little regulation, our Industry has been under valued by Government and our voice is not being heard. When the rules change, why don’t we take a stand?

A Registered Plumber and Electrician are the only ones allowed to do plumbing and electrical work and need to sign and submit paperwork. How? their Unions and Industry bodies have fought for this. Yet we have just allowed our profession to fall by the wayside and watched other industries surpass us in wages.

This starts with small steps and many voices.

The first step is to band together as an industry rather than tear each other down. The trend in our industry is to compete by undercutting other salons and clients feel they can ‘wheel and deal’ prices due to confusion. This reduces our value to the outside world and in turn reduces our self worth as an industry. It’s time to get out of the cheap heap and charge what we deserve. But we all need to be in this together, unified as an industry.

So what’s the solution?

1. Weed out the hangers on. In Australia, we need Licensing to be reintroduced as they have in the US. Currently, you do not need to prove a qualification to get a job in a salon or open up at home. A licence, for a small fee to be renewed every year would enable us to practice Hairdressing anywhere within Australia, whether that be salon, home or freelance.

2. We need to reduce the growth of unregulated home salons. Most do not even register with council and advertise on sites such as Gumtree to get cheap clients. We need to shut down these ‘chop shops’ and keep the legitimate home salons going and registered as you would any business. This includes regular Local Council Health Checks and Licensing checks.

3. Consistent training across the states with a focus on salon based training working alongside the RTO. Business owners need to be accountable for the training they supply their Apprentices and they need to be a registered Training Salon to be able to take on Apprentices. This will reduce the likelihood of Apprentices being treated as ‘slave labour’ and ‘glorified cleaners’ with little or no movement forward in their career. The Apprentice will have to pass a final exam within the RTO and on site in the salon to be able to complete their qualification, rather than the ‘discussion’ approach with no real time frame that is currently in place. The future of our industry relies on proper training, up skilling and passionate people. This starts with us as Salon Owners being accountable for what we produce.

4. A move away from the wage based pay system and into a Commission based system or Booth Rental system to encourage Hairdressers back into salons. Hairdressers need to be rewarded and paid well for for the work they do. As the ‘product’ this system encourages Hairdressers to sell themselves, which means keeping up with training and the latest techniques. This is not an ‘unfair’ system, but rather one that rewards the passionate ones and weeds out those who don’t really want to work in our Industry.

5. Keeping our prices fair and also profitable. In every other Industry, professionals price according to overheads, product, skill level and demand, yet in Hairdressing we are told to ‘call all the salons in your area and see what they are charging’. How can we compare apples with oranges when we all have different levels of experience, overheads and product choice. Coming into the salon is an experience and different price levels should be acceptable according to that salon’s expenses. We can have the cheaper salons with cheaper products and quicker service (ie McDonald’s) or the more elite experience with higher quality products and more attention to the clients (ie Nobu) but either way, the price should reflect what the client gets and it is the clients choice to decide. As salon Owners we need to have a proper business plan, taking into account our time, the salon ‘real estate’ the clients sits in, staff wages, utilities and product costs. Until we work those sums out, we cannot produce a proper price list.

In my salon we charge clients per grams of colour and time taken by their Stylist of choice. Clients find this a fair system and the person with long, fine hair pays less than the client with the long, thick hair. Staff feel as if they are earning according to their time and experience and that their time is seen as valuable to the Salon Owners. No time pressure and no loss of profits if the Stylist takes longer with a client. How long it takes, is how long it takes and the client gets charged accordingly. Obviously the longer the Stylist has been doing hair, the higher they charge but also the faster they work, so the price reflects this. Clients understand this and pricing is transparent.

The more colour used, the higher the price. This reduces wastage as what the staff member mixes is part of what they charge the client . No two colour services are the same and this helps stop a blanket pricing system where the colour takes longer or uses more product than the initial quote, reducing salon profits and frustrating Stylists who spend a long time on a client with little reward.

So why are we afraid to charge our worth? Is it because we believe we will lose clients? Or we don’t feel confident in what we do? Or do we feel what we do doesn’t matter?

We won’t lose clients. Everybody needs their hair done, well those of us with hair anyway. If Hairdressing is the most common paid service for women out of all the Personal Services, then where do you think they will go. Most people box dye once, ok maybe twice, before they realise that Hairdressers do it so much better. Most people cannot cut their own hair better than we do, no matter how many You Tube videos they watch, so where are they going to go? We cannot be replaced with robots, so where are they going to go?

So you don’t feel confident enough to charge your worth? To that I say TRAINING, TRAINING and more TRAINING. We live in a digital world. If you can watch You Tube, you can upskill. The internet is flooded with Hairdressers worldwide showing off their skills. If they have taken the time to record that video, we should give them the time to watch it. Look, follow, get inspired. Then try it yourself on a friend, staff member or even a mannequin head. You are the artist. Create your own masterpiece. There is no right or wrong, only client satisfaction.

Learn your colour wheel and treat each colour as having its own solution. What worked on Client X will not necessarily work on Client Y. Our craft is not cookie cutting. Nothing frustrates me more when people ask online what toner to use for their client. If you cannot work this out yourself from your consultation and the Colour Wheel then it’s time for you to go back to basics. And no, this one toner does not look good on everyone so don’t use it on all your clients. This miracle unicorn toner is about as useful as the foundation that works out your skin colour after you apply it and matches perfectly to it. Ahhh! Advertising lies.

We are lucky to be in an industry that is future sustainable for a very long time. So we only have ourselves to blame if we are going the way of the Blacksmiths. We need sudden and drastic change now and we all need to be onboard. Together, we need to bring back the glamour and buzz of the salon. Make Hairdressers want to work in a team and be paid well for their hard work. As Salon Owners we need to follow all Federal regulations in regard to Super and Tax and the correct pay rates. We need to step up as Trainers and share our knowledge, rather than hiding it for fear that staff will leave. We need to encourage staff not to leave, by making it more profitable and enticing to stay within a salon rather than working from home.

The change starts with us. We need to be the change. Only then can we rebuild our industry and get the recognition we deserve. This will attract new candidates and stop the talented ones from leaving for a better life in a Call Centre (as if that’s a better life). We need to give ourselves the respect we deserve and stand up for our pricing and our staff. Only then does our journey begin. Then we campaign to Government for change.

Leasa

I would love to hear your thoughts on what other viable changes you feel the Hairdressing Industry needs.

Join our page Australian Hair Salon Owners Association to make a difference and have a voice https://www.facebook.com/groups/Australiansalonownersassociation/

Why Does My Blonde Hair Keep going brassy?

Brass is the enemy of most Blondes and the constant battle keeps us toning and purple shampooing to remove all signs. What causes blonde hair to revert back to warmth and why does it keep happening even after a toner?

TONER FADE

When we lighten hair, we lift it to a pale yellow and never to white. This is the colour it should be pre toner. The reason why we don't lighten hair to white is that this is the point when hair breaks so we lighten hair to pale yellow and then tone it to a clean blonde by counteracting the yellow. This means that pale yellow undertone is always hiding behind the toner. As the toner fades off with hair washing, this pale yellow tone will present itself after about 3-4 weeks. This is why your hairdresser will recommend a purple toned shampoo, conditioner or treatment to use at the 3 week mark to keep this counteracting colour present. The other alternative would be to visit the salon 3-4 weeks after your blonde colour for a refresher toner. This will help keep your blonde clean and fresh until your next blonding session at the 6-8 week mark.

Click here to read 'WHY TONER IS SO IMPORTANT TO YOUR BLONDE HAIR'

SMOKING

We know smoking is bad for your health and that includes your hair. Smoking can dehydrate not only your skin but your hair as well. The nicotine can cause yellow staining on teeth, nails and yes your hair. The hair will absorb toxins from the air and if you are always around cigarette smoke then the hair will absorb this and have a yellow orange tinge. If your toner is having trouble holding or your hair is never the clean blonde you desire, then it may be time to give up the fags.

HAIR IRONS

Just like an iron can leave a yellow burn stain on your favourite shirt, overuse of hair irons can do the same to your hair. And just like the shirt burn satin, the hair iron burn stain does not come out in the wash. In fact, this discolouration won't even budge with bleach. If you have warmer ends of the hair or gold patches for no reason, it's time to lower the tempurature of your hair irons or put them down all together.

ENVIRONMENTAL TOXINS

I'm talking polution, smoke, hard water, chlorine etc. As stated before, hair is highly absorbant of the environment it lives in. To help counteract any environmental absorbtion, make sure you use a moisture treatment once a week. Hair that is dehydrated will draw moisture in from any source it can find, including the environment (this is why our hair frizes in the humidity). Hydrated hair will absorb less environmental toxins. You can also use a deep cleansing shampoo once a week, especially if you swim a lot or work outside in a dirty environment.

OVERUSE OR PURPLE TONING SHAMPOO

Toning shampoos, conditioners and treatments are designed for minimal use. Once a week or fortnight 3 weeks after your colour. Anything more or excessively over pigmented products can build up in the hair, causing a dull, murky tone. As this overtoning fades, the red pigment from the purple tone remains, especially at the ends of the hair where the hair is most porous. This remains as a warm, orange tone to the hair with a hint of cool. In the Hairdressing Industry we call this colour 'green/gold' and it's never pretty!

Click here to read 'COULD YOUR PURPLE SHAMPOO BE DAMAGING TO YOUR BLONDE?'

We all know blonde hair takes extra care and maintenance and these tips will hopefully help keep your hair as fresh looking as the day you leave the salon